Sunday, January 30, 2011

Peace Corps is hard work...?

Although it was warm today (in the 60s), the weather remains cold. Thanks to the meat thermometer sent to me for Christmas I have been able to see just how cold it actually has been getting. I like sounding tough about cold weather but, the temperatures are rarely as low as they feel. There have been a number of frosty mornings, but generally the coldest it gets is in the mid 40s. For those trying to survive the Minnesota winter, I know that you are probably longing for these sorts of balmy days, but hear me out on this (I still want to redeem my reputation of being able to withstand cold). It is almost always at least 5 degrees colder inside than out. There isn’t much chance of escaping the cold. It is everywhere and we do everything we normally would do, like typing this blog, in it. It’s a bit like going camping for 4 months in late fall.

After three weeks of vacation, life is starting to swing back into normalcy. I have gone back to sitting at the cafes hoping for the spark that will bring a random conversation into a full-blown fire of learning. I’m back to hazy meetings with people, after which I’m lucky to have understood half of what was said and done. Back to running in the mornings and not eating chocolate and drinking beer every day. Normalcy is nice and its easy to wrap myself back up in the comfort of it, but I’m now coming to grips with just how little I have gotten done here under its allure.

Every 3 months, each Peace Corps volunteer is supposed to fill out a report describing all work related activities done within the previous reporting period. It was easy to pass the first one off as a freebee. We had been in site for only a couple of months, and I was happy to report that I had not yet done anything of great significance. This second one felt different though. It forced me to rack my brain in pursuit of the smallest, most obscure memories of activities that I could possibly shape to seem like active work. Endless meetings and café bullshitting unfortunately don’t count.

Put into perspective, its not surprising or all that disappointing that I have done so little, but its easy to get lost in the success of others and feel below par compared with them. I know that comparison is a frivolous pursuit without end, but I suppose it is human nature. I have been doing it since I was a kid. When I got an A and someone else got an A+, I wasn’t happy. The competitive spirit seems never to have left me, and as a result I am left feeling behind and lacking.

As it did when I didn’t get the A+ and the other kid did, the perceived lack of success has materialized a new resolve to be more persistant and ambitious. I hope that, as a result, it will ignite the same feelings in the people I am trying to work with. Most of the projects’ successes depend on the success of the local people leading them, and, in turn, my success in this area is entirely dependent on it too.

My biggest fear is not that I wont finish a successful project. I will not have a problem if that happens, because, as I said, so much is independent of me and my own ambition. I came here, in part, to work as hard as I can, not only to help those I'm working with to be successful, but also to help myself be successful. And confident. In order for those things to happen I have to know that I am working as hard as I can. I am through with the sit-back-and-wait approach. It's time for some action!

Antsy

Although it was warm today (in the 60s), the weather remains cold. Thanks to the meat thermometer sent to me for Christmas I have been able to see just how cold it actually has been getting. I always want to sound tough when it comes to cold, but the temperatures rarely are as low as they feel. There have been a number of frosty mornings, but generally the coldest it gets is in the mid 40s. For those trying to survive the Minnesota winter, I know that you are probably longing for these sorts of balmy days, but hear me out on this (I still want to redeem my reputation of being able to withstand cold). It is almost always at least 5 degrees colder inside than out. There isn’t much chance of escaping it. It is everywhere and we do everything we normally would do, like typing this blog, in it. It’s a bit like going camping for 4 months in late fall.

After three weeks of vacation, life is starting to swing back into normalcy. I have gone back to sitting at the cafes hoping for the spark that will bring a random conversation into a full-blown fire of learning. I’m back to hazy meetings with people, after which I’m lucky to have understood half of what was said and done. Back to running in the mornings and not eating chocolate and drinking beer every day. Normalcy is nice and its easy to wrap myself back up in the comfort of it, but I’m now coming to grips with just how little I have gotten done here under its allure.

Every 3 months, each Peace Corps volunteer is supposed to fill out a report describing all work related activities done within the previous reporting period. It was easy to pass the first one off as a freebee. We had been in site for only a couple of months, and I was happy to report that I had not yet done anything of great significance. This second one felt different though. It forced me to rack my brain in pursuit of the smallest, most obscure memories of activities that I could possibly shape to seem like active work. Endless meetings and café bullshitting unfortunately don’t count.

Put into perspective, its not surprising or all that disappointing that I have done so little, but its easy to get lost in the success of others and feel below par compared with them. I know that comparison is a frivolous pursuit without end, but I suppose it is human nature. I have been doing it since I was a kid. When I got an A and someone else got an A+, I wasn’t happy. The competitive spirit seems never to have left me, and as a result I am left feeling behind and lacking.

As it did when I didn’t get the A+ and the other kid did, the perceived lack of success has materialized a new resolve to be more persistant and ambitious. I hope that, as a result, it will ignite the same feelings in the people I am trying to work with. Most of the projects’ successes depend on the success of the local people leading them, and, in turn, my success in this area is entirely dependent on it too.

My biggest fear is not that I wont finish a successful project. I won't have a problem if that happens, because, as I said, so much is independent of me and my own ambition. I came here, in part, to work as hard as I can, not only to help those I'm working with to be successful, but also to help myself be successful. And confident. In order for those things to happen I have to know that I am working as hard as I can. I am through with the sit-back-and-wait approach. It's time for some action!

Friday, January 28, 2011

Christmas in Morocco

I suppose everyone has a memory of their first Christmas away from home and family. They remember where they were and what reason it was that resuluted in their being away. I imagine for some, it was a welcome change and for others sort of, well, devastating. For me it was neither. But it was strange.

In the weeks leading up to Christmas I took comfort in the thought that almost everyone, at some point in their life, for whatever reason, has to venture off on their own, even on a holiday deeply rooted in home and family. I took greater comfort in knowing that everyone who joins Peace Corps signs up to make these sorts of sacrifices.

Normally, by no decision of my own, I am forced into a Christmas “mood.” Musac (sp?) in the grocery store, displays at Target, and lights in the streets all draw forth old memories of Christmases past and force me to think about the Christmas present months before the actual day. Without trying, the holiday bears down on you in the States. But that sort of hysteria doesn’t exist in Morocco. At least not for Christmas. No Santas hohohoing their way through city malls. No shivering bell ringers by all department store doors. Nothing to suggest that the holiday exists outside the confines of our Western, Christian culture.

While, out of habit more than anything, I felt a slight empty space where all the hype was missing, it was almost refreshing to be away from it. Not to say that I didn’t miss my family and home more than usual (I definitely did), but, for me, it was nice to celebrate simply a holiday that originally celebrated the significant, but simple birth of Jesus, and later became a holiday for simple reunification of family and friends. While I didn’t have my blood family with me here, I did have some of my Peace Corps family. With them Christmas was everything it should be: simple, gratifying, and fun.

Many of my Peace Corps “family” went home for the holidays, but I was lucky to coax my neighbor, Socorra and another friend from the other side of Morocco, Isabel into joining me in Tafoghalt to celebrate the day. It was probably the plane tickets for the flight to Belgium from the Oujda airport more than my coaxing that actually brought them this way, but oh well. Anyway, to make up for the lack of Christmas spirit preparation, from the moment they arrived to the moment we left for Brussels, we spent almost all our time locked up inside; our Christmas stronghold against the indifference of the Moroccans outside. With some decorations, a few presents, and shared memories and some traditional foods of past Christmases we bolstered (in my opinion) a respectable amount of “cheer.”

If Christmas was a downsize of what I am accustomed to, New Years was quiet the opposite. The morning of the 26th we left Tafoghalt by taxi to make our way to the Oujda airport, all fostering doubts that the snowstorm in Europe and the general standard of Moroccan transport would allow us to make it successfully to Brussels.

We were forced to depart from the plan even before we got to the airport when the souk bus driver, thinking, as we did that the airport that had been in use for years was the one we were flying out of, dropped us off at that airport. As soon as the trailing exhaust of the bus cleared enough for us to see, we could all sense the eerie stillness of a recently abandoned place. The parking lot was empty, there was no bustle, and the few cars that we saw coming in we soon saw leaving again. Despite these omens, we continued walking from the highway where we had been dropped off to the front doors of the airport. Not until we got there were we informed by a nearby group of lazing gendarmes that this was now the “old” airport and that the new one about a mile and half away was now open. Oh, and no we couldn’t take the shortcut. They of course were too busy to help us further, so we started the long trek to the “new” airport by foot, sticking out our thumbs whenever a car happened by. As luck had it, we finally approached a guy sitting in his car (for the sake of PC it was an official taxi) on the side of the road, who without hesitation took us the rest of the way to the airport. Oh Morocco.

By the providence of God or Allah or whoever, we made it to Brussels with no further hassles aside from a flight delay, and on arriving we were fortunate enough to find our other companion from Fes and have Isabel’s distant uncle pick us up from the airport and take us directly back to his apartment. As it turned out, despite it being his and very nice, he didn’t actually spend many nights there so it was all ours for the week. So after a brief introduction and inauguration into Belgian beers and a tour of the place, he left us alone to our Belgian adventure.

One day we visited one of Belgium’s oldest and most traditional breweries, but, in large, we spent most of the week just wandering around, checking out museums and shops, and eating waffles and drinking beer whenever the whim took hold of us.

Towards the end of the week, after an almost devastating mix-up, my friend from home, Megan, joined us for New Years Eve and Day. No description of these last couple days is necessary. In the end, after having to pay Ryan Air 80 Euros for two forgotten pieces of printer paper (a lovely sendoff), we made it back to Morocco. I was expecting a sort of bitter departing from Europe and an even more bitter return to Moroccan life, but the opposite actually materialized. The 80 Euro fee was one last reminder that, although it is the culture that I am most comfortable with, we in the west let ourselves focus way too much on profit and business. We forget to treat humans like fellow humans. It is one of the most important lessons that Moroccans have been teaching me over the last year. As a culture they live life with a certain amount of pride and selfless humanity that we, in the west, seem to be losing to the pursuit of success and profit. At no time since I have been here has that been clearer than when I came back from Brussels. It’s good to be back!

Sunday, January 16, 2011

Catching Up is the Hardest Thing to do

No! I am not dead! I know that it has been some time since my last entry on this blog, but for those of you have questioned the state of my pulse in the last few weeks, rest assured. It is still beating. No. My AWOL status is due entirely to laziness and maybe a small amount of lacking inspiration. Not, as some seem to think, to freezing in a freakish snowstorm or over consumption of Morocco’s sweet tea (though I have no doubt these things may yet take their toll). I guess I shouldn’t waste too many words or too much of your time in the pursuit of excuses, but instead will get straight to the point of catching you up on the story of my Morocco life.

If I’m not mistaken (and I’m pretty sure I’m not since I can look at it directly below) that my last entry left us off somewhere right before Thanksgiving. That holiday seems almost an eternity behind me. I’m hard-pressed to remember what has happened since then, but I know that, somehow, I have been busy. Or at least I have felt busy. In this is the story of the last couple months regarding my personal development. I can call a day where I had one meeting and made peanut butter a very busy, exhausting day. So when I say that my month was busy, remember the context in which it is being said.

Thanksgiving was an “experience.” Emphasis on experience since I have never celebrated anything like it before and probably won’t ever again. It was my first major family holiday away from home (other than one Easter while I was in Turkey. There aren’t a lot of big Easter celebrations at our house anyway so that wasn’t a big deal) and my first in this country. The celebration we had here was strangely similar to one I would have had at home with most of the same foods, new family, and even some football, but it was definitely different. I say “strangely” because, while we tried to replicate what we were all used to, there were so many constant reminders of where we were, or more appropriately where we were not that it was hard to convince ourselves that this was 100% Thanksgiving. Anyway, I wont repeat what has already been said when its been said so well by my friend and neighbor to the south, Socorra. She has a blog about it on her sight that says almost everything, and might I add, in a more entertaining fashion than I think I’m capable of. Everyone should be reading her blog anyway.


After I returned home from Jerada Thanksgiving, showed some other volunteers around my site, and devised plans for a massive French colonial style paintball war, I pretty much immediately had to prepare for work. And I mean like REAL work. Like I had to finalize plans for a meeting I was to have with the women in Tegma about the benefits of forming a business cooperative for their rug weaving and about what I realistically could and could not do for them. I didn’t really have to do that much, but the language is still my biggest challenge, and even the simplest task (like calling someone I don’t know) is so much harder than it normally would be. In the end, through the haze of my constant misinterpretations and fear of language failure, the meeting did not happen the way that I had tried to plan. It did happen though, and that fact alone makes it 80% successful. Luckily I had the help of a very motivated Oujdi woman and a representative from the ODOC (The govt department that supports the formation and upkeep of business cooperatives) that we convinced into coming. They were able to carry the meeting and convey much of the message that I couldn’t. And despite my having planned a more active personal role in it than happened, I was happy to let others do it for me. A major tenet of Peace Corps is that I should be more of a cheerleader than anything anyway. The results of the meeting: while it seemed to have gone well to me, it apparently didn’t. All that talking that I thought was constructive conversation was mostly complaining, criticizing, and asking for things that we couldn’t give. Pretty disheartening to find that out afterward, but that’s all part of the job and I will continue to try with them as long as they start taking a more active role in their own future and demanding less of outsiders. Now to figure out how to communicate that.

While this meeting with the women was probably my biggest work related activity of the last couple months, it wasn’t the only one. I’ve filled at least a few hours since talking with people and having meetings, all in an attempt to set the foundations for successful future projects. To many of you at home, this may not seem like much. It certainly seems that way to me most of the time. I often have to sit down and think about it realistic terms to appreciate that I am not wasting my time away here. I work at the pace that my counterparts work, I try to find and cultivate motivation within them before moving on to serious action, and I am trying to stick to the PC mantra that we should only help them do what they themselves are passionate about doing (this being extra difficult as I'm not finding a lot of passion to do anything beyond drink tea). Working under this philosophy means that a lot of my time is spent not actually doing any “work” whatsoever. This is another large challenge, only second to language. I don’t like feeling lazy! But… I really really hope, in the end, that all of this idling and prodding, pushing and waiting lead to successful/sustainable projects.

As most of my time is not spent doing work that can easily be measured, or for that matter, be counted as work at all, I still spend plenty of time idling away the hours. I continue to work on my recorder skills (yes, that is the musical instrument), and until someone has pity on me and sends me a more legitimate instrument (excuse me all legitimate recorder players who are reading thing) I will continue down this path of grating noise. I also continue reading lots of books and watching lots of movies. Thank you to those that helped me out with these sanity savers over Christmas! I have added hikes to my list, visited Oujda a few times, somehow ended up in front of a quite decidedly anti-American crowd with an American flag, decorated random things around my house, drunk far to much tea (need I mention it again?), bought a bbq and an oven, been chased in the dark by wild pigs and gone on vacation. I think I will write about that vacation which includes Christmas separately.

And that’s about it. Or at least that wraps up a lot of the mundane into a short and sweet summary. As I kind of like writing more about the mundane, and maybe some of you like reading about it, I will continue trying hard to avoid laziness and to write more often.
No! I am not dead! I know that it has been some time since my last entry on this blog, but for those of you have questioned the state of my pulse in the last few weeks, rest assured. It is still beating. No. My AWOL status is due entirely to laziness and maybe a small amount of lacking inspiration. Not, as some seem to think, to freezing in a freakish snowstorm or over consumption of Morocco’s sweet tea (though I have no doubt these things may yet take their toll). I guess I shouldn’t waste too many words or too much of your time in the pursuit of excuses, but instead will get straight to the point of catching you up on the story of my Morocco life.

If I’m not mistaken (and I’m pretty sure I’m not since I can look at it directly below) that my last entry left us off somewhere right before Thanksgiving. That holiday seems almost an eternity behind me. I’m hard-pressed to remember what has happened since then, but I know that, somehow, I have been busy. Or at least I have felt busy. In this is the story of the last couple months regarding my personal development. I can call a day where I had one meeting and made peanut butter a very busy, exhausting day. So when I say that my month was busy, remember the context in which it is being said.

Thanksgiving was an “experience.” Emphasis on experience since I have never celebrated anything like it before and probably won’t ever again. It was my first major family holiday away from home (other than one Easter while I was in Turkey. There aren’t a lot of big Easter celebrations at our house anyway so that wasn’t a big deal) and my first in this country. The celebration we had here was strangely similar to one I would have had at home with most of the same foods, new family, and even some football, but it was definitely different. I say “strangely” because, while we tried to replicate what we were all used to, there were so many constant reminders of where we were, or more appropriately where we were not that it was hard to convince ourselves that this was 100% Thanksgiving. Anyway, I wont repeat what has already been said when its been said so well by my friend and neighbor to the south, Socorra. She has a blog about it on her sight that says almost everything, and might I add, in a more entertaining fashion than I think I’m capable of. Everyone should be reading her blog anyway. www.socorrac.tumblr.com

After I returned home from Jerada Thanksgiving, showed some other volunteers around my site, and devised plans for a massive French colonial style paintball war, I pretty much immediately had to prepare for work. And I mean like REAL work. Like I had to finalize plans for a meeting I was to have with the women in Tegma about the benefits of forming a business cooperative for their rug weaving and about what I realistically could and could not do for them. I didn’t really have to do that much, but the language is still my biggest challenge, and even the simplest task (like calling someone I don’t know) is so much harder than it normally would be. In the end, through the haze of my constant misinterpretations and fear of language failure, the meeting did not happen the way that I had tried to plan. It did happen though, and that fact alone makes it 80% successful. Luckily I had the help of a very motivated Oujdi woman and a representative from the ODOC (The govt department that supports the formation and upkeep of business cooperatives) that we convinced into coming. They were able to carry the meeting and convey much of the message that I couldn’t. And despite my having planned a more active personal role in it than happened, I was happy to let others do it for me. A major tenet of Peace Corps is that I should be more of a cheerleader than anything anyway. The results of the meeting: while it seemed to have gone well to me, it apparently didn’t. All that talking that I thought was constructive conversation was mostly complaining, criticizing, and asking for things that we couldn’t give. Pretty disheartening to find that out afterward, but that’s all part of the job and I will continue to try with them as long as they start taking a more active role in their own future and demanding less of outsiders. Now to figure out how to communicate that.

While this meeting with the women was probably my biggest work related activity of the last couple months, it wasn’t the only one. I’ve filled at least a few hours since talking with people and having meetings, all in an attempt to set the foundations for successful future projects. To many of you at home, this may not seem like much. It certainly seems that way to me most of the time. I often have to sit down and think about it realistic terms to appreciate that I am not wasting my time away here. I work at the pace that my counterparts work, I try to find and cultivate motivation within them before moving on to serious action, and I am trying to stick to the PC mantra that we should only help them do what they themselves are passionate about doing (this being extra difficult as I'm not finding a lot of passion to do anything beyond drink tea). Working under this philosophy means that a lot of my time is spent not actually doing any “work” whatsoever. This is another large challenge, only second to language. I don’t like feeling lazy! But… I really really hope, in the end, that all of this idling and prodding, pushing and waiting lead to successful/sustainable projects.

As most of my time is not spent doing work that can easily be measured, or for that matter, be counted as work at all, I still spend plenty of time idling away the hours. I continue to work on my recorder skills (yes, that is the musical instrument), and until someone has pity on me and sends me a more legitimate instrument (excuse me all legitimate recorder players who are reading thing) I will continue down this path of grating noise. I also continue reading lots of books and watching lots of movies. Thank you to those that helped me out with these sanity savers over Christmas! I have added hikes to my list, visited Oujda a few times, somehow ended up in front of a quite decidedly anti-American crowd with an American flag, decorated random things around my house, drunk far to much tea (need I mention it again?), bought a bbq and an oven, been chased in the dark by wild pigs and gone on vacation. I think I will write about that vacation which includes Christmas separately.

And that’s about it. Or at least that wraps up a lot of the mundane into a short and sweet summary. As I kind of like writing more about the mundane, and maybe some of you like reading about it, I will continue trying hard to avoid laziness and to write more often.